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DOG GROOMING-DIFFERENT COATS-DIFFERENT TOOLS

Updated: 7 hours ago


  • The Right Grooming Tools.

Every dog is unique, and so is their coat.

When grooming your furry friend, understanding their coat type and using the right grooming tools can make a big difference not only in maintaining their coat's health but also in strengthening your bond with them.



  • Choosing the Right Brush or Comb

Dog coats come in different types: short, medium, long, and double.

They also come with a wiry coat.

These coats need special care, which we will discuss later in this blog.


If you have a short-coated dog, such as a Beagle or a Bulldog, using a Bristle Brush is a good way to keep their fur neat.

Its soft, flexible bristles help remove loose hair and stimulate the skin, promoting a shiny and healthy coat.


Medium-coated dogs, such as Golden Retrievers or Border Collies, benefit from a Slicker Brush that can reach all coat layers, untangle mats and remove loose hair.

It's essential to be gentle when using a slicker brush to avoid skin irritation.



  • Long Coats.

Long-coated dogs, such as Shih Tzus or Lhasa Apsos, have beautiful, flowing coats that can easily become tangled.

A De-matting Tool or Rake is best for these dogs, as it can reach into the deeper layers of their coat to detangle mats and remove loose hair without causing discomfort.

Tip: Read our Blog on: A Comprehensive Guide to Long Haired Dogs and their Grooming Needs.


  • Undercoats.

Dogs with two coats, such as Huskies and German Shepherds, have special grooming needs.

The inner layer, or undercoat, is thick and soft, helping to keep them warm, while the outer layer is longer and rougher, protecting them from the weather.

An Undercoat Rake is a highly effective tool for grooming this type of coat.

It works wonders by reaching through the top layer of fur to gently remove those pesky loose hairs from the soft undercoat underneath.

Using this tool not only helps reduce shedding but also keeps your dog's coat looking healthy and well-groomed.


As we mentioned at the beginning of this blog, wiry-haired dogs need special treatment, and below is a quick guide to help you through this special technique.


Hand Stripping for Wire-Haired Dogs (and why not to clip)

Important note: Many Groomers are not qualified to hand-strip a dog's coat, so they will clip instead of strip.

Therefore, it is better to learn the technique yourself.

Tip: You can find Hand Stripping classes online.


What is hand stripping?

Hand stripping is a grooming technique in which dead, ready-to-shed guard hairs are removed from the coat by hand (or with a stripping tool), rather than cutting the coat with clippers.

It's most commonly used for wire-haired breeds and some hand-stripped Terrier coats to keep them harsh, weather-resistant, and properly textured.


Why hand stripping is important (and why clipping isn't ideal)

For many wire coats, the outer coat (guard hair) grows in cycles.

When it's "blown" (ready to come out), remove it by hand:

  • Keeps the coat harsh and crisp (the correct wire texture)

  • Maintains coat colour and pattern (clipping often fades or dulls colour over time)

  • Supports healthy coat turnover by removing dead hair so the new coat can grow properly

  • Helps reduce matting by preventing dead hair from getting trapped in the new coat.


Reasons why not to clip a wire-coated dog:

  • Softens the coat (it can become fluffy or woolly)

  • Makes the coat hold dirt and moisture more easily

  • Can increase tangling/matting

  • May change the coat's appearance long-term, making it harder to return to a true wire texture


An important note on double-coated dogs

Most double-coated breeds should not be hand stripped in the traditional Terrier sense.

Their coat care usually involves deshedding (removing loose undercoat)not pulling guard hair to create a wire texture.

However, some dogs have mixed coats or harsh topcoats, for which experienced groomers can use targeted hand-plucking.

In general, for double coats, focus on deshedding tools and technique, not full hand stripping.


How to hand strip (step-by-step)

Check the coat is "ready"

  • The coat should release easily.

    If you have to tug hard, it's not ready (or you're taking too much at once).

  • Work on a clean, fully dry coat.

    A slightly "grippy" coat is easiest.

    Many groomers use a tiny amount of coat chalk or stripping powder for grip.

  • Stretch the skin

    Use your free hand to hold the skin gently and taut for comfort and safety.

  • Take small amounts

    Use your thumb and finger (or a stripping knife as a helper) to take a few hairs at a time.

  • Pull in the direction of coat growth.

    Smooth, quick motion—never yank upward.

  • Build the jacket gradually.

    Strive for a uniform appearance.

    Many coats are styled using a "rolling" technique (see the section below), rather than removing all the hair in one go.

  • Use scissors for tidying when needed.

    Use scissors to trim areas such as feet, hygiene spots, and outlines, in accordance with breed standards and grooming objectives.


How often should it be done?

How often your dog's coat is Hand-Stripped depends on whether you want a rolled coat (best look year-round) or a full strip (seasonal reset).

  • Coat Rolling (suggested for various wire-haired breeds):

    Perform light stripping every 1–2 weeks for show dogs (or every 2–4 weeks for pet owners)

    Maintains a tidy, coarse coat texture.

  • Complete hand stripping (for a coat reset):

    Generally done every 8–16 weeks.

    Often followed by routine rolling maintenance.

Your groomer can set a schedule based on how fast your dog's coat grows and how harsh you want the texture to stay.


What does ROLLING a coat mean?

Rolling a coat (also called rolling the jacket) means you hand-strip small amounts regularly, so the coat is always at different stages of growth, rather than stripping everything out at once.


What are the benefits of rolling a wire coat?

  • Maintains a firm and weather-resistant texture on the jacket.

  • Preserves deeper colours, resulting in less fading than clipping.

  • Eliminates the "naked then fluffy" transition often seen with complete stripping.

  • Creates a consistent and neat appearance throughout the year.


How rolling works (simple method)

  1. Identify the longest, dullest hairs (these are usually the "ready" ones).

  2. Strip only those hairs, taking tiny amounts at a time.

  3. Leave the shorter, newer hairs underneath to form the next layer.

  4. Repeat across the jacket so you're always removing the oldest layer and keeping the coat even.


How often?

  • Most pets: every 2–4 weeks (light maintenance session)

  • Show/very tidy finish: weekly or every 1–2 weeks


What you're aiming for

A jacket that looks consistently:

  • even in length

  • harsh in texture

  • not patchy (no big "stripped bald" areas)


Tools commonly used for rolling.

  • fingers + finger cots/gloves

  • stripping chalk/powder for grip

  • fine/medium stripping knife (used to grip, not cut)

  • stripping stone for blending/finishing

  • Comb to check you're not leaving tangles



Tools to use for hand stripping (and coat prep)

Hand stripping essentials:

  • Stripping chalk/stripping powder (improves grip)

  • Finger cots or latex/nitrile gloves (better grip, protects fingers)

  • Stripping stone/pumice stone (great for finishing and blending)

NOTE: A stripping stone or pumice stone is used during hand stripping of a dog's coat, which helps to remove dead hair and promote a healthy, manageable coat.

These tools are particularly effective for breeds with wiry or harsh coats, as they help remove dead hair without damaging the undercoat or skin.


Reasons to Use a Stripping Stone or Pumice Stone:

1. Texture: The rough surface of these stones helps to grip and pull out dead hair more effectively than using just your hands.

2. Control: They provide more control over the stripping process, allowing you to target specific areas and manage the coat's density.

3. Gentleness: Using a stripping or pumice stone can be less harsh on the dog's skin compared to aggressive pulling or using improper tools.

4. Maintenance: Regular use can help maintain the coat's shape and texture, keeping it looking its best between grooming sessions.


How to Use a Stripping Stone or Pumice Stone:

1. Preparation:

Start with a clean, dry coat. Bathing the dog beforehand, stripping can make the hair softer, but ensure the coat is completely dry for effective stripping.

   

2. Technique:

Hold the stripping stone or pumice stone in one hand and use the other hand to separate the hair you want to strip gently.

Place the stone against the coat and pull it against the direction of hair growth.

Apply even, gentle pressure to avoid irritating the skin.

 Work in small sections, focusing on areas that need attention, such as the back, sides, or legs.


3. Observation:

Keep an eye on the dog's comfort level.

 If your dog is stressed or uncomfortable, stop and give them a break or adjust your technique.

   

4. Clean Up:

 After you have finished, ensure to brush out any loose hair and clean up the area to maintain a tidy grooming space.

  • Using a stripping stone or pumice stone correctly can help achieve a well-groomed, healthy coat that meets breed standards.

  • Stripping knives (various sizes: fine/medium/coarse)

    Tip: Many groomers use the knife to help grip and guide hair—not to "cut" the coat.


For hand stripping your dog, you will need certain tools:

  • A Grooming Table

  • An antistatic Greyhound comb (checking for tangles and blending)

  •  An antistatic Slicker brush (light use for prep; don't over-brush harsh coats)

  • Curved and thinning scissors (tidying outline, feet, sensitive areas like chest, belly and tail)

  • A stripping Knife


For double-coated dogs (deshedding focus):

  • Undercoat rake

  • Deshedding comb

  • High-velocity dryer (to blow out loose undercoat safely)

  • Slicker + comb for line-brushing


Dog breeds that commonly have their coats

hand-stripped

Many Terriers and a few Sporting Breeds are traditionally hand stripped, including:

Terriers (common):

  • Border Terrier

  • Cairn Terrier

  • Norfolk Terrier

  • Norwich Terrier

  • Jack Russell Terrier (rough/broken coat)

  • Parson Russell Terrier (rough/broken coat)

  • Wire Fox Terrier

  • Welsh Terrier

  • Lakeland Terrier

  • Airedale Terrier

  • Irish Terrier

  • Scottish Terrier

  • Sealyham Terrier

  • Dandie Dinmont Terrier

  • Schnauzers (Miniature, Standard, Giant)

  • Wire-haired Dachshund


Other wire-haired dogs:

  • Wire-haired Pointing Griffon

  • German Wire-haired Pointer

  • Wirehaired Vizsla

  • Spinone Italiano (often hand stripping/hand plucking or CARDING, depending on coat)


What does CARDING mean?

Carding a dog's coat is a grooming technique used primarily for dogs with thick or double coats, such as Huskies, Retrievers, and Terriers.

It involves using a special tool, a Carding Tool or Rake, to remove loose undercoat hair and debris from the dog's fur.



The carding process helps to:

1. Remove Dead Hair: It effectively pulls out dead or loose fur from the undercoat, which can reduce shedding and keep the coat looking healthy.


2. Promote Airflow: By removing excess undercoat, carding allows for better airflow to the skin, which promotes a healthy coat and helps prevent matting.


3. Maintain Coat Texture: This technique helps maintain the natural texture of the dog's coat, ensuring that it remains lush and well-groomed.


To Card a dog's coat, you typically work in sections, using short, firm strokes in the direction of hair growth.

It's important to be gentle, especially around sensitive areas, to avoid causing discomfort.

Regular carding can be an essential part of maintaining a dog's coat, particularly during shedding seasons.


Final Thoughts

Understanding your dog's coat and choosing the right grooming tools can significantly enhance its health, reduce shedding, and make grooming a delightful experience for both of you.

You must remember that grooming is more than just maintaining your dog's physical appearance.

It's an opportunity to bond with your dog, inspect their skin for any anomalies, and ensure their overall well-being.

How often you should groom your dog depends on their breed and coat type, but a general rule of thumb is to brush them at least once a week.

To make grooming a pleasant experience for your dog, always choose brushes that are comfortable to hold and gentle on your dog's skin.

Remember, short-coated breeds do better with a Bristle Brush.

Medium coated breeds do better with a Slicker Brush.

Long-coated breeds and breeds with a double coat require a detangling tool and/or a Rake, as well as a brush.

And, just like with any pet care routine, consistency is key.

After all, a well-groomed dog is a happy and handsome dog!








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